How to pass through Eglin Air Force Base on the Florida Trail.
About Eglin
Eglin Air Force Base is a sprawling military installation located in the panhandle of Florida, encompassing over 464,000 acres of land and water. Established in 1937, it is one of the largest military reservations in the United States and serves as a vital hub for the United States Air Force. Eglin AFB is home to a diverse range of missions, including:
Air Armament Center: Eglin is renowned for its cutting-edge research and development in air-to-air and air-to-ground weapons systems. The Air Armament Center, headquartered at the base, spearheads these efforts and collaborates with industry partners to advance the capabilities of the U.S. Air Force.
Special Operations Command: Eglin hosts elements of the United States Special Operations Command (USSOCOM), including the 1st Special Operations Wing. This specialized unit conducts highly classified missions and provides training and support for special operations forces worldwide.
Electronic Warfare Center: The Electronic Warfare Center at Eglin is responsible for developing and testing cutting-edge electronic warfare systems. This includes advanced radar systems, countermeasures, and electronic attack capabilities.
Test and Evaluation Center: Eglin's Test and Evaluation Center plays a crucial role in evaluating new aircraft and weapons systems before they enter service. The base's diverse terrain and airspace allow for realistic testing scenarios, ensuring the effectiveness and reliability of these systems.
Trail Mileage & Camps
Eglin Air Force Base Military Police
Phone Number
850-882-2000
Hikers are responsible for checking it daily for closers
This map provides a graphical display of the TTA's that are closed each day due to a scheduled military mission. This map should be viewed each time you intend to visit the Eglin reservation.
PAM updates at 6 a.m., 12 p.m. & 6 p.m. daily.
All hikers are responsible for checking the Public Access Map (PAM) for daily closures before entering Eglin AFB. The PAM is located on the iSportsman home page under the "Access Times/PAM" tab; click here). Mission closures (depicted as RED on the PAM) may prevent hiker access to portions of the FNST.
The trail begins at the Eglin Portal/US 331 Trailhead on US 331
Eglin Portal Camp 2.9 mi
Alaqua Camp 11.9 mi
Alaqua Trailhead 15.2 mi
Bull Camp 18.7 mi
RR214 25.4 mi (an easy place to get off the trail as-needed)
Red Deer Camp 27.2 mi
SR 285 29.1 mi
Speck Pond Camp 31.4 mi
Jr. Walton Camp 37.6 mi
Pearl Camp 44.3 mi
Shoal River/SR 85 Trailhead on FL 85 N 45.2 mi
How to get a Permit
Contact the Jackson Guard office at 850-882-4165 or 850-882-4166 2 to 3 days before you arrive.
Before you hike:
Make a iSportsman account and finish the process of watching the safety videos and taking the test.
A salute to the brave women and men of the armed forces. Thank you all for your dedication to our great nation.
Explanation of why
The reason behind all the safety on the trail is:
When an area is closed, it could be used by the military for training or weapon testing purposes. So if an area turns red in that area on the Public Access Map (PAM) map, then it could be highly dangerous to pass. It's common to wait at a campsite for 2 to 3 days waiting for the area to open.
Questions & Answers
Here's some of the most common questions I get. If you have a question you want posted, just hit the let's chat button.
What do you do when you see an alligator in the water with you?
It's important not to approach one. But if they are on the trail or very close to the trail, you may want to wait for them to move. If they are come toward you on the trail, then you want to get to one of the sides and behind a tree or something without making splashing sounds. In the summer you may see a few, normally they just sink in the water and I just keep an eye out.
How many days are you in Big Cypress Swamp?
I plan for 4 nights and 5 days. The reason behind I'm not rushing through Big Cypress. There are lots of solution holes, which will break an ankle or leg (pictures in the gallery section under the videos). Then there are large areas where you want to use your trekking poles to see if there is anything under water (like alligators, crocodiles, snakes or large turtles) that you may step on your next step. Some of the limestone is also very slick. Around Ivy camp and Oak Hill camp you can expect that movement will be slow anyways, but you don't want to to get caught all night away from a camp, especially in the summer (gators are looking for food dusk to dawn). Also in the early mornings and evening the reflection of the sky is all you will see in the water (can't see what's in front of you).
How many alligators do you see when crossing Big Cypress?
The last time I was in there was November. I only saw a gator at the Oasis Visitors Center, But in the summer when the water was deep, i saw several and had one that was bellowing at me. I gave that one as much room as I could to pass.
Is there a lot of bears on the Florida Trail?
I seen 9 in the summer and around 4 in the winter. Between Big Cypress and the Seminole Reservation and the Ocala Forrest is where most of them are. You defiantly want to hang your bear bags and follow my tips page.
How often do you see a Panther and where?
It's a real rare hike when I see one. There is places where they are seen easier, But these areas are best to keep confidential. But there are sighting all over the state and I've been shown trail cam footage and I don't believe most are not making bad identification.
What the scarcest thing that's happened to me on the Florida Trail.
I was trekking SOBO in the summer and the Kissimmee Prairie/ 3 lakes area was flooded. It was late and I was beat from the water, then road and the heat. I set up camp on the levee north of River Ranch, which is also a cattle field. I saw no cattle in site so I put my tent on top of the levee and over to one side, just it case some cows came by at night and I didn't want to get stomped. I could hear the Saturday night rodeo at the Westgate River Ranch going on as I fell asleep.
I woke hours later to the sound of stomping and grunting. I grabbed my headlamp and looked out of my tent to discover a large bull going in half circles and stomping the ground about 25 feet away. I thought I'm not in a cow field, I'm in a freaking bull pen. I loaded my pack in under 3 minutes. Before I could get out and grab my tent the bull ran down the other side of the levee as a second bull was coming up from the other side. It wasn't my best tent packing ever, But I made it out of fenced area.
"The Big 3"
When people talk about "The big 3". They are referring to the the 3 biggest challenges on the FT.
Big Cypress
Big Cypress National Preserve, a sprawling wilderness in southwestern Florida, is a testament to the raw beauty and ecological significance of the Everglades. Its vast expanse of cypress swamps, sawgrass prairies, and mangrove forests teem with life, creating a haven for an incredible diversity of flora and fauna. Towering cypress trees, draped in Spanish moss and adorned with bromeliads, stand sentinel over the murky waters, their roots reaching deep into the rich peat soil. The air is thick with the sweet scent of wildflowers and the gentle hum of insects, while alligators bask on the sun-drenched banks and great blue herons stalk through the shallows. A tapestry of wildlife weaves its way through the preserve, from the elusive Florida panther to the majestic bald eagle soaring overhead. Big Cypress offers a unique glimpse into the delicate balance of nature, where ancient ecosystems thrive amidst the encroachment of modern civilization. This fragile paradise, with its towering trees, shimmering waters, and vibrant wildlife, serves as a reminder of the importance of preserving our natural heritage for generations to come.
⬇️The Challenges⬇️
This 30 mile stretch of trail is considered the biggest challenge of all. With large areas of swamp water and thick mud makes it a though workout. Water levels in dry season is usually around shin to knee deep. In the summer rain season water levels can reach over 40 inches.
A lot of the trail is covered with very slick slimy rock bottom and random solution holes that can easily brake a ankle. ( Solution sinkholes are formed by local chemical weathering of the rock, where water accumulates around a fissure or joint in the rock.) Next is the famed home of the alligator. I didn't see any when I crossed in the winter, But I seen several when the water was deep in the summer. Venomous snakes which are in abundance are seen laying in the water on the trail, floating like logs or lay on the ground in the dry spots. I've never seen a panther there, but they live there. Bears are more common, especially at night.
⬇️The Soulotion⬇️
The trail is littered with shoe parts. The number one cause if the acidity of the water. It can brake down glue in a few days, then when you get to suction mud they rip apart. I would recommend a backup set or what I prefer is mid size leather boot. It's ankle support for the solution holes and foot protection for what ever lurking in the water. Florida has no known panther attacks and no documented bear attacks, but they are wild animal and will attack if you startle them or get to close to their cubs are kittens. I carry mountain lion/bear spray. The only animal I've ever had to spray was a aggressive Pitbull on the 2nd trip. Now most snakes are not aggressive unless it feels threated. In fact that most of the snakes under water leaves the area when they feel the vibration in the water. But hiking to fast in the swamp can be hazardous for a number of reasons. Also using a pole or hiking stick to feel in the water in front of you when you can't see. See "alligator safety" section for alligator protocols.
Ocala Forest
Bradwell Bay
Ocala National Forest, a sprawling wilderness tapestry woven with towering pines, emerald-hued cypress swamps, and shimmering lakes, beckon adventurers and nature lovers alike. Spanning nearly 600,000 acres in central Florida, this verdant haven is a sanctuary for countless plant and animal species, a haven for hikers, horseback riders, and off-road enthusiasts. The silence of the forest is broken only by the chirping of cicadas and the rustling of leaves as the wind weaves its way through the tall trees. Trails, some paved and some primitive, wind their way through the forest, revealing hidden waterfalls cascading over moss-covered rocks. A network of pristine lakes and springs, like the famed Silver Springs, offer opportunities for swimming, fishing, and kayaking, their crystal-clear waters reflecting the azure sky. The forest is also a haven for wildlife, from the graceful white-tailed deer and the elusive black bear to the vibrant painted buntings and the majestic bald eagles soaring overhead. A visit to Ocala National Forest is a journey into the heart of nature, a chance to reconnect with the wild and experience the tranquility of a true wilderness.
The second largest Wilderness in Florida is full of verdant life, dominated by the swamp, a thick, humid expanse teeming with titi trees. These trees, distinguished by their leathery leaves and fragrant white flowers, stand sentinel over the landscape, their branches interwoven with the sprawling limbs of hardwoods and pine-titi mixtures. The air is thick with the scent of the swamp, a humid, sultry blend of earth and blossoms, a constant reminder of the subtropical climate that reigns. Rainfall is generous, averaging 55 inches per year, and the summers are hot and sticky, drenched in humidity, but the winter offers a respite, with temperatures sometimes plunging into the teens. Throughout the Wilderness, the low areas are perpetually submerged, a shallow pool of standing water, between one and four inches deep, constantly present. The water table, in fact, hugs the ground surface, or even rises above it, in this flat, watery realm. However, this watery expanse is not uniform. Drier islands of longleaf pine and wire grass rise up, providing pockets of contrasting landscapes, oases of dryness within the humid embrace of the swamp.
⬇️The Challenges⬇️
⬇️The Challenges⬇️
Ocala National Forest is around 607 square miles and in that is over 1200 bear residents there. Although the potential issue is not the amount of bears. The potential issue is that some of bears that are there have been brought in nuisance bears from other area. They may lost there fear of humans, perhaps humans have been feeding them or maybe they just wandered into a populated area. Either way you still have a high probability of a encounter on the trail or in your campsite at night. On my first trail was in the summer and I had nine bear encounters. In Ocala forest I once had three different encounters on the same day. The other places that is common is Big Cypress, Seminole Reservation south side and the Apalachicola Forest.
Known as the deepest water on the Florida Trail. It's unique because the pine trees in middle was never logged. So the middle area of the trail is almost 7 miles and around 3 to 4 miles of the waist high water in the winter and a little deeper and wider area in the summer. I've only ever seen 1 small gator there, but they are there. Most common hazard there is cottonmouth snakes laying in water mostly in shallow places on the trail. Also the areas that are dryer is a large population of Pygmy rattlesnakes.
Pygmy Rattlesnake
⬇️The Soulotion⬇️
⬇️The Soulotion⬇️
Luckily there is know documented case of a bear attack in Florida. But wild animals are wild animals and should be respected as that. Never approach a bear or get between them and their cubs. They will make bluff charge so don't run because that's what there food does and they may have a predatory instinct to chase. Bear bells don't work, but singing loud will let them know you're there. If you see a bear let it know you it, but don't stare at it, because it takes that as a threat. Never turn your back to it, just walk slowly backwards. In a stern voice say "Go away bear." But not yelling at it. At the same time stand tall with hands over your head, occasionally clapping. If they won't leave your campsite then twist some toilet paper, light it, then blow it out so that it smolders and set it safely by the tent. Bears don't mind camp fires but hate the smell of smoldering toilet paper. Also I once got a bear to leave by playing a You tube of angry dog barking. Lastly don't forget to use your bear bag and line. I double Ziplock all food, toothpaste or anything that has odor. Good or bad odor.
The best way to stay safe in here is to keep a slower pace. So you can keep on alligator lookout and give the cottonmouths a chance to get out of the way. As the trail wears the path gets to be shaped like the letter V, with a foot or less of muddy water at the bottom. The muddy sides are steep and slick, even to a snake. So they time to get out of your way. I've had a cottonmouth struck my right hiking pole while in Bradwell bay. I was just getting in to much of a hurry. Slowing down and paying attention to immediate path can save you from that misery. About 20 years ago I got bit by a cottonmouth on my left ankle, while in Mississippi. As I was walking out of some blackwater and not paying attention a moccasin bit through my jeans and boot. I nearly lost a leg on that one and haven't made that mistake again.
